Millau, the town under the Bridge

Having been a regular visitor to Millau and Aveyron for nearly 20 years, the ease of driving through the town and parking was a dream last summer in contrast to previous trips.  Where was all the traffic?  The tailbacks both to the north and south have been renowned for many years with Millau at the bottleneck of the A 75 between Clermont Ferrand and the Languedoc.  But since the Autumn of 2004, the jams have been replaced by the elegant Viaduc de Millau straddling the horizon to the west of the town.  When spanning its majestic 2.5km width, 340 metres above the valley floor, motorists get a bird’s eye view of the pink and honey coloured sprawl below.    However, driving across the bridge designed by British architect Norman Foster, gives little idea of its beauty or innate grace. And there are no motorway rest areas, nor any planned, from which to view it at a distance.  To do this, motorists have to leave the autoroute and drive towards the town below the bridge, Millau (pronounced Mee-oh).    Many of its 20,000 inhabitants question whether the viaduc is advantageous to the town and its region.  The jury is still out on its long term effects, but for the moment it does give visitors an excuse to stop and discover Millau.  Not only does it offer the best views of the viaduc as well as its visitor centre, but also provides a host of other interesting diversions.

            Millau is in the heart of the Parc Naturel Régional des Grands Causses where the rivers Tarn, Jonte and Dourbie have sliced deep gorges through the 5000 sq. km plateau creating the four plateaux (Causses in the local patois).  Sitting comfortably in the wide valley at the confluence of the Rivers Tarn and Dourbie, Millau’s physical situation is magnificent with its muted architecture in contrast to the bold colours of  the fissures of the Causse Noir and Causse du Larzac.

            This strategic position has always been key to its importance regionally between Albi to the west, Clermont Ferrand to the north and Montpellier to the south. Until the construction of the new bridge, Millau could not easily be avoided. 

Two thousand years ago, it was already an influential commercial township with the largest pottery in the Western Roman Empire.  Its geographic position and ample clean water offered an ideal location and for over 150 years, it remained a centre of excellence.  But by the 12th Century an alternative industry had replaced  pottery.  The limitless supply of hides from sheep grazing on the nearby Causses, along with the abundant river water, encouraged the long term development of its leather industry.  It involved three distinct processes: hide preparation, tanning and tailoring.  They all required a skilled workforce that gradually specialized in the production of gloves.   Millau became the world capital of glove-making, a position it retains to this day.

   Despite still making in excess of 200,000 pairs annually, good quality leather gloves have become far less fashionable in recent years.   With the invention of man-made fibres and cheap leathers from around the world, the couture industry of Millau has had to diversify into other leather and suede clothing.  It is predominantly the top fashion houses that seek out its high quality hides although there is now also an increasing demand from prestigious furniture makers.

            The old quarter, with its narrow streets is full of reminders of the town’s ancient fortifications and  leather history.  Rue des Cuirs is not far from Quai de laTannerie or Rue des Coloristes and the old water mill still dominates the remaining pillars of the medieval bridge.  The Musée de Millau is in the18th Century Hôtel de Pegayrolle on the Place Foch.  It includes among other exhibitions, the  Maison de la Peau et du Gant, a fascinating glimpse into the ancient industry.  The historic centre is full of small shops and cafes curling round the 12th century beffroi.  A climb to the top provides a panorama of the town, rivers and Causses.

With its leather industry at a crossroads, Millau once again has looked upon its own geographical crossroads for new directions.  And the surrounding Causses and rivers offer unrivalled opportunities for outdoor activities. 

The falaises rise majestically near the town and are world renowned for hang gliding; no matter in which direction the wind blows, there is a suitable cliff face from which these giant wings can be launched and lifted by thermals.  The falaises lead up to the broad plateaux.  Scorched in summer and windswept in winter, their stony surfaces hold little moisture and water filters through the limestone to form an underground world ideal for cavers.  The four Causses  offer much variety for walking and mountain biking.  Sauveterre is the northernmost plateau, gentle and hilly with every possible patch of fertile earth under cultivation.  Causse Méjean is the highest and also the most barren and isolated.  It is dotted with sinkholes and funnels through which rainwaters have streamed to create spectacular limestone caverns bristling with stalagmites and stalagtites.  The Causse Noir immediately to the east of Millau is renowned for its lunar-like landscape while the largest Causse du Larzac, to the south of the town has endless moorlands with rocky outcrops.  Between these different landscapes, the rivers flow through deep gorges offering canoeing, kayaking and canyoning.  Millau has to be the obvious centre to visit the region with abundant cafes, hotels and a large campsite on the banks of the Tarn.  It is also a short drive from Roquefort with its famous blue cheese caves and a stone’s throw from the fabulous Templar villages of the Causse du Larzac, Sainte Eulalie and La Couvertoirade.

It is unsurprising to learn from the Office du Tourisme  that the town’s hotels and restaurants have never been so busy with the viaduc being the visitor’s reason to stop.  But I would assume that when they discover Millau’s charm and simple character as well as its abundance of surrounding attractions, like me, they will return again and again.

FRANCOFILE:

Office de Tourisme, 1 Place du Beffroi, 12100 Millau

Tel:(Fr) 5 65 60 02 42 

email office.tourisme.millau@wanadoo.fr

 website: www.ot-millau.fr

Musée de Millau, Hôtel de Pégayrolles, Place Foch, 12100 Millau

Tel:(Fr)5 65 59 01 08

Email: musee.millau@wanadoo.fr

© Judith Cameron