Pouilly-Fumé, the smoky flavoured, dry white wine, is synonymous with the little village of Pouilly-sur-Loire. Nestled on the eastern banks of the river in the central département of Nièvre, wine-making has been the area’s dominant activity for more than a thousand years with vineyards first mentioned in a title given to the Abbey of Auxerre around 680 AD. Until the beginning of the 20th Century, the white wine produced here was from the sweet Chasselas grape, and was a popular addition to Parisian meals. But when most vines had to be replanted following the damage from the phylloxera louse towards the end of the 19th Century, Sauvignon Blanc became more established. Now of secondary importance, Chasselas is still grown locally for the less distinguished Pouilly-sur-Loire, but Sauvignon Blanc is cultivated for Pouilly-Fumé. Both wines have had the Appellation d’Origine Contrôllée status since the 1930’s but whereas Pouilly-sur-Loire’s official minimum alcoholic strength is 9%, that of Pouilly- Fumé is 11%. Its much publicised smokiness is said to be a characteristic specific to the flinty soils of the terroir.
Pouilly-sur-Loire is situated on a wide and shallow stretch of the river, precisely half way along the meandering route from its source to its estuary. Until the railway was built, the village’s prosperity relied heavily on the waterway, with barges carrying wine down river to Nantes returning with salt and other dry goods. After the construction of the Briare canal that linked the Loire to the Seine in 1642, Paris, northern France and beyond also became key markets. Only with the introduction of the train did the river lose its significance for wine-makers. Nevertheless, until the turn of the 20th century, Pouilly continued to offer an important crossing of the river in this rural area for both freight and passengers with a fleet of flat-bottomed bacs. A bridge was finally constructed across the 1000 metre stretch in 1902 at the exact middle point between mouth and spring.
There had been a road along the eastern bank of the river since Roman times, but with the advent of the motorcar, another important transport link was forged with the RN7 passing straight through the village. Pouilly’s local cuisine and superior wine made it a popular stopping place on the famous ‘route bleue’ for Parisian holidaymakers heading to the Cote d’Azur. Nowadays the nearby A77 carries most of the traffic south, but the village is still easily reached from the motorway via a traditionally tall avenue of trees. It is more tranquil than before although just two hours south of Paris and the long-established Chez Mémère still offers the traveller quality home cooking at a reasonable price. Continuing through Pouilly along the old route nationale, many modest family-owned domaines line the road and it is evident that they remain quietly busy with passing trade.
There has been a thriving local co-operative, Les Moulins à Vent, since 1948, but many independent vignerons are still responsible for the production of their wine from vine to table. One example is Bernard Petit et Fille, on the southern edge of the village. Monsieur Petit’s home is a small, detached house with his cellar and wine shop in an undercroft. Some of his vines are planted next to the property and nearby is a modern building where the wine is pressed and fermented. As well as the vineyard adjacent, Monsieur Petit also owns parcelles elsewhere in the terroir. Starting with just one hectare inherited from his father, he now owns eight, which he says makes him a medium sized producer in the locality. Bernard Petit grows both the Chasselas and Sauvignon Blanc grape varieties to create Pouilly-sur-Loire and Pouilly-Fumé but unlike some domaines, doesn’t separate the harvest according to its lieu dit or geographic position; Monsieur Petit prefers his wines to be homogeneous. His daughter Aurélie will be taking over the business next year when she finishes her studies in oenology. Aged 23, she will become the third generation of her family to enter la vie viticole.
As was common practice at the time, Aurélie’s grandfather worked at the local Château as well as tending his own small vineyard. This opulent castle lies just to the north of the village surrounded by immaculately trimmed gardens and vineyards. With turrets and towers, the fairy-tale appearance of the Château du Nozet de Ladoucette provides a dramatic contrast to the majority of Pouilly’s smaller, family owned domaines. Although the present castle is only 150 years old, its foundations date back to a fortified Benedictine monastery from the Middle Ages. The domaine has remained in the same family of bankers since the end of the 18th Century with its present owner, Monsieur Patrick de Ladoucette, not only keen to preserve his heritage, but also enthusiastic in the development of the Pouilly-Fumé appellation. Since taking over the business in 1973, Monsieur de Ladoucette has overseen the modernisation and expansion of his vineyards from 17 to 104 hectares, making it the largest in the area. Château de Nozet wines are now recognised as among the best and most consistent of the Loire’s Sauvignon Blanc.
Although the river no longer has any commercial value to the wine growers, it is still much revered as a nature reserve. The small islands and sand banks of the wide waters are an eco-paradise and home to nearly 200 different birds. Nearly a third of European bird varieties can be found at some time over the course of a year nesting, feeding or over-wintering in its environs.
La Reserve Naturelle du Val du Loire was created in 1995 along this central stretch of the river and Pouilly-sur-Loire opened its Pavilion du Milieu du Loire in 2002. This modern structure now incorporates the office de tourisme and is a celebration of the interdependence of the Loire and the village. Built near the banks of the river, it is an exhibition and learning resource centre that offers the visitor a glimpse into the fascinating life of this peaceful little village, its history and its wine.
© Judith Cameron
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