Sancerre is known as a racy, pungent, dry white wine and is renowned throughout the world. But it is also a dramatically situated medieval town and popular destination for those wishing to discover Cher, one of France’s lesser known départements. Originally a fortified castle, the town perches on a small hillock above vineyards that have been cultivated since Roman times. Its narrow, winding roads climb steeply up the hillside with names indicative of its long wine-making and religious history.
To appreciate Sancerre’s location, it’s worth climbing the 195 steps of the ancient Tour des Fiefs where it becomes clear why this place was chosen by Etienne 1st, grandson of William the Conqueror, to build a fortress. On a fine day, the panorama from the top of the tower offers a spectacular bird’s eye view of the jigsaw of old tiled roofs of the medieval city below. It spreads to a neat patchwork of vineyards linking the town to the languorous splendour of the river Loire in the distance. But the evident prosperity of the picturesque town and its appellation belies its chequered past.
The Tour des Fiefs is the only remaining tower of a medieval fortress, though its surrounding vineyards go back to earlier times. One of the first references is the legend of Saint Martin church, built during a drought in 1040, when wine was used for the mortar instead of water. (This may help explain why there is no longer any church on Rue Saint Martin.)
The walled city prospered under the feudal aristocracy, and by the 13th Century, its fine wines were praised as fit for kings. During the religious wars however, Sancerre became a haven for Protestants in a predominantly Papist area. Finally, in 1573, Roman Catholic forces besieged the ramparts for nearly 8 months and starved its residents into submission. Nearly half the town’s population died and those who survived, though allowed to keep their religious freedom, were forced to pay heavy fines. The city’s economy was in ruins and many of its protestant inhabitants left for Switzerland or the Netherlands. Later, in 1621, the city suffered another humiliation when Henri II insisted on the demolition of what was left of the fortified castle, with the exception of the Tour des Fiefs.
Nevertheless, the reputation of Sancerre’s wine continued to thrive and Henri IV is reputed to have said that it was the best he had ever tasted.
But the wine that made Sancerre famous in the middle ages had little in common to that which is produced today. Then, it would have been a heavy red wine – from the Pinot Noir or Gamay grape – whereas nowadays, when there is talk of a fine Sancerre wine, it is invariably a dry white sauvignon. Even when white wine arrived here in the early 19th Century, it was not the Sauvignon Blanc grape, but the sweeter Chasselas that was valued.
Sauvignon Blanc became popular in the twentieth century. As elsewhere in France, the Sancerre vineyards were decimated by phylloxera and mildew towards the end of the 19th Century and its population was depleted by the Great War of 1914-1918. Also, until this time, most vines were grown as part of a polyculture economy, alongside livestock and other crops.
It was only with the introduction of the Appellation d’Origine Controlée in 1935 that Sancerre become synonymous with Sauvignon Blanc. Later, in 1959, a Sancerre red (and rosé) did come under the AOC using the Pinot Noir grape, but it is a much lighter and refined red wine than that produced in earlier times and only accounts for 20% of production today.
For the last 40 years the Sancerre Sauvignon Blanc has become sought after, and its success is evident in the meticulously tidy vineyards and affluent hamlets that surround the hilltop town. Although some traditional methods of cultivation remain, such as the custom of growing a rose bush alongside the vines to signal an early sign of infection, wine growing is no longer left to the vagueries of nature. To avoid the catastrophe of disease, specially adapted tractors now treat most vines at frequent intervals from late spring and this systematic approach has helped the appellation grow in tandem with its increased global popularity. Since the 1960’s, the Sancerre vineyards have nearly quadrupled in size with 60% of the volume produced being sold abroad.
Today there are endless opportunities to visit wine-makers, with signboards erected along many of the area’s roadsides. The same names crop up time and again suggesting extended families involved in la vie viticole. This is confirmed on a visit to the domaine of Jean-Max Roger, whose family has been making wine in the hamlet of Bué for several hundred years. However only the recent, post Second World War generation chose to specialise in winemaking and study monoculture as opposed to the previous mixed farming methods.
Although only inheriting 4 hectares, Monsieur Roger now cultivates 26 which makes him one of the larger vignerons Sancerrois. The domaine produces a wide variety of wines, some aged in oak barrels, and supplies many European top hotels, restaurants and wine merchants. But as is normal across the appellation, the parcelles are spread over several communes and lieux-dit. Monsieur Roger explains that he separates his vendange according to its lieu-dit, or geographical position. Sancerre is in a hilly region that lies on a geological fault with a continental climate that can result in heavy winter frosts and long dry summers. Along with three types of soil – silex (flinty), calcaire (chalky) and caillottte (stony), there is also a varying micro-climate dependent on the lieu-dit. This all means that the taste and bouquet of Sancerre changes considerably depending on its year, lieu-dit and fermentation process.
Perhaps, the variety in taste helps explain why Sancerre continues to be so popular when many French vignerons are struggling. Also, the town’s success is confirmation that the Sancerrois are willing to adapt to changing demand and ensure the future survival of their quality wine.
© Judith Cameron
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